KC Keeps on Trukin'

KC spent the last week in Chuuk, the FSM state adjacent to Yap. Of course, “adjacent” is a relative term in the endless Pacific. Chuuk is 500 miles away on the map, and as far as the culture is concerned may as well be on a different planet. Cultural differences notwithstanding, Chuuk has the advantage of a stunning location and fascinating history.

The Japanese had a major base here during the Second World War; most of the Japanese Second Fleet resides at the bottom of the lagoon, victim of a 1944 bombing raid second in scope only to the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor.

KC didn’t go for the diving, though. She was there for oral arguments and to sit as a judge for FSM Law Day, where high school students from each of the FSM’s four states debated a (hypothetical) proposal to ban the importation of unhealthful (but popular) foods such as turkey tail, Spam, and canned corned beef. Ramen noodles also made the list, much to the chagrin of college students worldwide.

The Lonely Planet describes Chuuk as “rough around the edges,” and having experienced the island, KC agrees wholeheartedly. Despite the beautiful setting, Chuuk has problems with overpopulation, poverty, corruption, and widespread unemployment. We thought the roads here were bad, but it may have been that we just didn’t have anything worse to compare them to. Well, no more. Here’s one of the better sections of the main road, replete with puddles big enough to have their own tides. Navigating this stretch on several occasions taught KC to avoid this particular pothole, which drops most of the way to China at its deepest point (and yes, we realize that we are already halfway to China, but thank you for noticing).

Chuuk’s grittiness does have its drawbacks, but it also makes for an interesting cultural experience. Government and commerce is centered on the island of Weno, an arrangement that gives commuting a different flavor.

There are more outdoor markets than in Yap, and the shopping is better in general.

Over the weekend, KC went kayaking and snorkeling. The water was warm and, in parts, wonderfully clear.

The snorkeling was great, too, but we’ll have to wait awhile for pictures since they were taken with a (gasp!) film camera.

Law Day was a surprisingly big deal, attended by the FSM legislative speaker, the FSM Chief Justice, and an assortment of other dignitaries. KC was impressed by the students’ arguments. Kosrae’s all-female team took the prize, convincing KC that she should never cook deep-fried turkey tail again. We'll post additional photos as they are developed. Thanks for reading.